Bushcraft and Survival Skills

Water Procurement: Depressions in Living Hardwood Trees

Description:
Here's a quick tip on where to find water and how to gather it from natural depressions found at the base of some hardwood trees.

WE ARE SURVIVALISTS

He who fails to prepare for the night, fails to prepare for the dawn.

I am a survivalist and by nature a survivalist is an OPTIMIST. I do not have one pessimistic bone in my body. If what I just said sounds odd to you, then you are not yet a survivalist and you do not understand the modern survivalist at all.

It has been very difficult to communicate to the public and and the mass communications media, the concept of an optimistic, hopeful survivalist. A fireman is a fireman, not because he believes everything will burn, but because he believes much can be saved. Doctors don't believe in death, they believe in life, and a survivalist is not a survivalist because he believes everything must be destroyed and everyone must die, he believes that life and freedom can be saved, if people of good will are prepared. A fireman does not start fires, a doctor does not make disease and a survivalist does not make disaster. Crime, disease, war, revolution, fire, flood, periodic financial collapse and famine are the results of nature and the nature of man and unfortunately are not within the power of anyone on this earth to prevent.

We all know that the sun will set each day, leaving us in darkness and we all know that warm summers give way to cold winters and that we can do nothing to keep the sun from setting ot the cold winds from coming, does this make us pessimistic? I think not! So then why is the survivalist called a pessimist when he makes ready to face events that are just as much part of history and nature as the sunset and changing of the seasons.

Another misconception is that survivalists are predicting world disaster. On the contrary, we seem to be the OPTIMISTIC MINORITY that is predicting world survival. We are hard pressed to find any well recommended historians, economists, political scientists, sociologists or military strategists that can come up with a scenario that gives even a fifty-fifty chance of avoiding a large scale catastrophe, yet we survivalist dare to be OPTIMISTIC about the future.

We survivalists do not need to predict the probability of disaster anymore than we need to predict the sun setting. Those who criticize survivalists, are like men who refuse to look at a calendar, in the hope that through self-imposed ignorance they can keep from aging another year.

"You survivalists will be disappointed if we don't have a world cataclysm", here is another accusation that is pure B.S. and I could not think of a milder phrase to describe it. We survivalists have loved ones we don't want to see hurt or killed, we have homes we don't want to see destroyed, we are not fools to think that just because we are survivalists a world cataclysm would be fun for us or the we would not experience danger, loss, hunger, injury, cold or even despair and death.

We have spent time and money to improve our chances for survival and recovery from disaster, but we would have a great celebration if some day we could be assured that we had wasted our time. No, we will not be disappointed if there is no disaster to survive, anymore than the Red Cross is disappointed when there are no floods and storms or the man who buys an insurance policy is disappointed when his house fails to burn down. It may be said that the survivalist would much prefer the pleasant (but unlikely) surprise of being wrong to the (probable) deadly rude awakening that the non-survivalist will face if he is wrong.

So, you see the survivalist can not lose because his survival preparations will be of value regardless of what the future has in store. In time of crisis, those who have not prepared to turn to each other, will turn on each other.

It is most regrettable indeed, that many people consider survivalists as a threat and regard them with suspicion and even hostility. This attitude is logically indefensible and is rooted in the non-survivalists own sense of fear and guilt. Subconsciously, the non-survivalist may hate the survivalist for reminding him of how fragile his lifestyle is.

Now, let's get the facts turned around right. THE MOST DANGEROUS PEOPLE IN AMERICA TODAY ARE THE NON-SURVIVALIST. Every person who has not made provisions for surviving without food, water, fuel and other essential needs from the outside, is a mortal danger to his neighbors. What will a man do when he and his family are freezing, hungry, thirsty,sick and starving? He may ask or beg his neighbors for help, but when they have no extra fuel, food, water or medicine to give, will he just go back home to die with his wife and kids? What do you think?

We survivalists who stock up on food and other supplies, now do a favor to society because what we now buy is replaced on the shelves so there will be that much more available in an emergency. We survivalists won't be looting and killing for food. We won't be a burden on the medical facilities or a danger to the police. Since we will be able to turn to each other, we will not need to turn on anyone and we maybe able to help at least some.

Survival preparation should be regarded as a social obligation, one that every individual owes to his family and community and his nation. The non-survivalist is simply a poor and irresponsible citizen.

So the reality is, that survivalists are optimistic, self-reliant individuals, who cannot help but see the imperative of preparing for the worst possible events, while hoping sincerely, that they won't happen. Today's survivalist is an asset to his community and to the world and should be proud to be called a SURVIVALIST.

Bushcraft Bow And Arrow 2 Part Play List

Part 1
Title:
bushcraft skills: how to make a bow (just a very basic one... yet effective!)
Description:
making bows is a fine art, but one can make a crude bow in a very short time and with little effort. i used hazel, which is imo the perfect wood for this kind of bow: soft enough to be easy to carve, strong (especially if fire hardened) and elastic enough to make a decent bow. i intentionally didn't tiller the bow, just to show that even a not-so-perfect bow can be usable... also, i decided to skip the fire hardening, which would have resulted into a stronger bow. the whole thing took about half of hour an very little effort.

Part 2
Title:
bushcraft skills: how to make an arrow (just a very basic one... yet effective!)
Description:
many say that an arrow is much hard to make than a bow... and they might be right! arrow making requires time, patience, skill, resources and tools. that is, if you have all of the above and you want a really good arrow. but, if you need an arrow "right now", maybe you can settle for a less-than-perfect-arrow, that still works within certain limits. in this vid, i try to prove that a very basic arrow (that is easy to make in a short time with just a knife) can be accurate at a decent range and can deliver a lot of impact/penetration, more than enough to take small game (if you can get close enough). bow hunting is prohibited in Romania, so i never shot an arrow to a living target, but i got in numerous occasions close enough to small game to be able to use even such a crude arrow with a fair chance to a clean kill. even if i prefer a good arrow, it's nice to know that i can make and use a more basic one, too.

Desciption: I demo a simple fishing pole that is built in the wilderness from natural materials and a safety pin. I also show you how to use the pole without the safety pin. Also shown is where to find live bait and how to make a quick fish stringer from local materials.

Update: This video from "Ghostkamo" is well done and well thought out and makes an excellent addition to this post below.

Preparing For Survival

In light of recent events many individuals and families are taking a fresh look at the dreaded "S-word," survivalism.

As with any beginners, these people need some sort of plan for these uncharted waters. I hope that this article can give some useful guidance to those new to the field, and perhaps some new insights to others who have been left to their own devices in coming to grips with this virtually all-inclusive field.

This plan consists of nine major points:

1. DETERMINATION
2. BECOME/STAY HEALTHY
3. ALLOCATE PART OF YOUR BUDGET
4. DEVELOP PLANS OF ACTION
5. HAVE A BUG OUT BAG
6. PLAN FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL
7. GET TRAINING
8. PRACTICE
9. BE DISCRETE

DETERMINATION
This is the first requirement to insuring your (and your family's) longevity. You must want to survive. Contact others upon whom you might rely (and whom may likewise rely upon you) in a crisis. This is not a game, although games can play a part in the training aspect. If we are to survive as individuals, as families, as a society, we cannot approach this as a one-person show. It will take cooperation of the highest order. The stakes are literally life and death.

Many people take the attitude that "If it happens, I wouldn't want to live anyway, " This is an attitude which almost guarantees defeat or death. A husband, father, or single mother with this attitude is virtually condemning his or her own family to a similar fate.

BECOME/STAY HEALTHY
Every-one in the family or group should get a complete medical, dental and vision checkup. Find your weaknesses and limitations so you may cope with them now. If eyeglasses or contacts are needed, get at least one spare pair, or save old ones. Stock up on cleaning solution if you wear contacts. Work to bring your teeth up to the healthiest level possible. A toothache can be a major problem even in normal times when a dentist is available. Imagine trying to make critical decisions while suffering with a toothache when there may be few, if any, dentists in operation.

Make sure your feet are in good condition. They may someday be your only mode of transportation. Begin and maintain an exercise program which balances strength with endurance and flexibility. Walking, running, swimming, bicycling and stair climbing are all excellent conditioners.

ALLOCATE PART OF YOUR BUDGET
Acquire supplies as your budget allows. Be practical and set priorities. For example, set aside $10 per month for weaponry (including ammunition and cleaning supplies, ($10 per month for clothing (if you don't have the proper clothing already on hand. (Three-piece suits or tennis outfits have very limited survival applications), another $10 a month for reserve food and medical supplies, and so on. If money is tight, you can alternate purchases from month to month.

The important thing is to make some sort of survival-based acquisition regularly, or at every opportunity. In making survival investments, you should consider the following points: a) Wil you actually need it (Does it serve a legitimate survival need, such as food clothing, or shelter?)

• Do you have the skill to use it properly, and would you be able to repair it when it inevitably breaks down?
• Will it need something else, such as electricity, gas, heat, or water to operate?
• How many/much will you need, and how long do you expect it to last?
(see Plan For Duration)
• Is it practical for the conditions you anticipate, such as proper clothing for the climate?

DEVELOP PLANS OF ACTION
You should discuss with your family or group the conditions under which you would run (Where?) or stay; whether to hide (For how long?) or fight (Whom? How?) . Every member of the group must be in agreement with the final plan. One dissident could destroy all your intentions; for instance by "setting-out" the group to an adversary.

You should also develop "backup" plans to cover various contingencies such as those mentioned. Plan for the worst-case scenario and work down from there.

HAVE A BUG OUT BAG
Keep a short-term (up to one week) Survival Kit / Bug Out Bag packed and ready to go in case you must leave NOW. Remember the priorities: shelter, water, food, medical supplies, weapons, communications. Ideally, you should have several kits; one for each member of the family and group, another one in each vehicle in case a crisis occurs at an unexpected moment (as they usually do). Also consider a large cache of supplies away from the home, in a place safe from discovery or disaster; in the event you must evacuate your home quickly, as in the case of fire, earthquake or war. Each of these survival kits or survival caches should be planned to supplement and extend the capabilities of the next smallest survival kit.

Avoid making your personal Bug Out Bag too heavy to run with; you may have to carry it long distances, quickly.

PLAN FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL
Try to realistically anticipate how long you expect your scenario may last, and add a little more to the estimate as a buffer against shortsightedness.

Do you expect your disaster scenario to last days (such as waiting for disaster relief after a major storm, fire, or earth quake) , months (i.e., a major strike by unions; rebuilding after a disaster) , or years (such as being caught in the clutches of a dictatorship, foreign invasion, or economic collapse) ?

Try to be realistic in your preparations. Plan for the consumption of food (calories per person per day, plus other essential nutrients) , water (gallons per person per day, for drinking, cooking and sanitation) , ammunition (as much as can be obtained, with a suggested minimum of 500 rounds per weapon) , air quality (while in shelter, or masks for outside) , medical supplies (including prescription medicines) , and so on.

Some of your scenarios may look unlikely in the context of present conditions, but it only takes an open-eyed look at the world, the nation, or the neighborhood, to see the potential for frightening situations to rapidly develop which would not allow time for preparation after the fact. For instance, note that many people reacting to a disaster often converge on all the nearest stores for provisions such as food, candles, bottled water, batteries, and so on. Frequently, the crowd gets impatient, not wanting or waiting to be left without essentials for themselves or their families. Occasionally, rioting and looting begin, feeding upon itself as the unprepared start to panic.

Your aim must be to store adequate supplies for all intended members of your group for the longest time that you will likely be on your own, with self-sufficiency being your goal. The federal government recommends having at least three to five days supplies on hand, to sustain you until relief agencies can get into action. The more serious the crisis, the longer you may have to wait for outside help.

If you are able, lay in extra supplies for a few additional persons who will, most likely, show up either on their own, or with members of the group ("My mother was visiting at the time; I couldn't just leave her") . As pragmatic as you must be, you must also not surrender your humanity completely. Otherwise, you are no better than the predators you may be fleeing. Of course, there is a practical limit to how much you can be expected to cope with. Examine your own conscience on this issue.

A plan must also be drawn up to deal with waste management. Essential "luxuries" such as toilet paper, soap, and proper means of disposing of human waste and garbage with become major issues during a survival situation. Goods and services we have always taken for granted may no longer be available.

You must also plan to cope with your people's emotional survival. The abrupt change in lifestyle, the day to day fight to stay alive, will take its toll psychologically if not treated quickly and continuously. Find things to alleviate boredom, such as games or projects. Give every able person in the group a job they will be responsible for. Even children can be instructed to secure trash, act as lookouts, or help with food preparation or gathering supplies. Also attempt to continue with their education, albeit with a different emphasis. Find duties which re quire a person to study the situation and come up with a solution. Hold meetings to keep everyone current on what's happening, and conduct frequent and regular classes for everyone in survival arts. Keep your people, and yourself, busy. Despair may be your worst enemy.

GET TRAINING
Your group should learn how to use weapons effectively. Safety, maintenance, handling malfunctions, and marksmanship are all of equal importance in a survival context. Because this is an area where mistakes can be fatal, instruction should be sought from qualified professionals, such as the National Rifle Association. Also, everyone should study unarmed self-defense under a qualified instructor; one who teaches combative, not tournament techniques.

Tactics are another important area of study. Learn how best to utilize your weapons under various conditions and environments, such as snow, rain, or at night. There are several reputedly good schools for this type of study. There are also many books such as military manuals which can be of help, if accompanied by lots of practice.

Study first aid diligently, as this is one of the most essential areas of self help study. The American Red Cross has excel lent, inexpensive courses on CPR and basic and advanced first aid. Everyone should be encouraged to take and pass such a course. A study of improvised medicines and first-aid equipment would also be useful. Some community colleges offer non-credit courses in herbology, folk medicine, and edible wild plants. There are many very good reference books on the subject. Another variation on this theme would be the study of medicinal minerals. You might seriously consider taking an Emergency Medical Technician course (or a Paramedic course if already an EMT) and joining a volunteer ambulance corps. Not only would you be contributing to a vital community function, you would also be gaining practical, real-life, hands-on experience which no course can give by itself. Remember, in a crisis, your body does what is has been trained to do. The untrained reaction to crisis is usually panic Practical experience aids tremendously in overcoming the panic which accompanies disaster.

Study Survival Skills and Bushcraft. Learn the difference between, and uses of, cover and concealment. Learn how to survive in rural or urban wilderness, how to find or construct proper shelter, how to gather food and collect and purify water, the use of correct sanitation procedures, basic land navigation, and much more.

PRACTICE
Conduct realistic simulations with your equipment and your people to gain valuable experience and confidence working together. Get the bugs out while it's relatively easy. Learn what works and what doesn't.

Go to the firing range often, preferably when you or your group can use it without onlookers. Practice on human-shaped targets, using tactics. Train in firing techniques for real world situations (such as varying weather conditions, target distance and size. Learn different firing positions, practice in-house techniques, etc.) . Always rigidly enforce appropriate safety procedures while training with weapons.

As an EMT, you can work on an ambulance or in the emergency room to practice and to accustom yourself to the suffering of others. It's certainly not pleasant, but it is crucial in over coming the shock of seeing something happen suddenly, perhaps to someone you love. This allows you to get on with treating the patient rather than wasting valuable seconds in panic. With practice, reaction becomes almost automatic, and confidence is gained. Without practice, hard-earned skills are gradually lost.

You should try to incorporate your survival skills into every day life, making it a normal part of your existence.

Don't, however, carry it to extremes, such as walking around in public wearing camo with a 10-inch knife on your belt. Don't advertise. Shooting and hand-to-hand practice, ambulance duty, making your own clothes, and canning your own food; all these skills and more will not only add to your survival repertoire, they will enhance the quality of your life, as you become less dependent on "the system" and more confident in your own abilities

. Learn the strengths and weaknesses of your equipment, your people, and yourself. Without practice and effort you are just wasting time and money, and someone close to you could die needlessly.

BE DISCRETE
Keep your actions and intentions as low-pro file as possible. You could risk discovery and the loss of every thing you have been working for, or wind up with a lot of people on YOUR doorstep in a crisis; people whom you cannot support, and who may have no positive survival value. If you intend to support dependents, prepare for them with your supplies.

One last thought. Because predatory people are out there, firearms are an essential element of survival planning. Unfortunately, they have been abused frequently enough to give the whole survival movement a bad reputation in the eyes of the general media, who too often seem to be looking to discredit and ridicule the movement. Survivalists should respect firearms and view them as tools to protect what they have: their lives, families, homes, and provisions; not as weapons of conquest. The more you prepare, the more ready you must be to defend against those who don't.

FOOD
----
MRE (Meal, Ready to Eat)'senough to last 30 days
2 months of food in the pantry (American Red Cross recommends canned food)
Canned veggies (Use water in the can as supplemental drinking water)
Corn, potatoes, peas, canned
Canned fruitpears
Canned tuna
Beans, canned
Beef stew, canned
Chicken, canned white meat
Chili, canned
Milk, canned
Granola bars
Peanut butter and jelly
Crackers
Dried beans, rice, pasta
Warm drinks
Pudding, canned
Juices
Cereals
Nuts, raisins, candy, soups
Dried fruit
Extrascatsup, honey, jam/jelly, salt/pepper
Date the cans and rotate stock
Store non-perishable foods in empty coffee cans
Can opener (non-electric)
o Also about 4 weeks worth of backpacking food, freeze dried & nitrogen packed
o High caloric items to keep up your strength
o Add a supply of good single malt scotch to your stash. (This is no joke.)
Aside from the fact that it makes good trading material, and *maybean OK
field expedient pain killer or disinfectant (don't take my word on the
latter), it's a great way of calming shot nerves. Keep in mind that even
though it may feel like it warms you, it really does the opposite, which
can be bad in cold weather. Also, don't get so squashed that you can't
respond to aftershocks or emergency situations. Guns and booze don't mix.
o cigarettes or pipe tobacco (if you're a smoker, so don't start now) :^)

WATER

50 to 60 gallons of water1/21 gallon/day
Heavy 5 gallon storage containers from Tri-City (about $14 each)
30 and 40 gallon storage containers from Rational Behavior
Hand water filter/pump (They can be purchased at Big 5 and will filter
almost any dirty water into clean). It will also kill bacteria such as
Giardia. It won't take out things unless the molecules are bigger than
2 microns.

CLOTHING

Good solid footwear (with ankle support)
Combat boots
Work gloves
Extra clothing (At least 5 days worth)
Underwear
Shirts
Work pants
Wool & cotton blend socks
Goose-down or Dacron II backpacking clothing
Layered clothing
Windbreaker outerwear (gortex if possible)
Wool medium layerIt stays warm even when wet (Don't forget mothballs)
Cotton or polypropylene inner layer
Silk is also very good

SUPPLIES

Flashlight and batteries (waterproof & explosion proof)
Don't keep batteries in the flashlight; store in freezer
Extra bulbs
Watch or clockbattery or spring wound
Radio and batteries (don't keep batteries in the radio)
Toilet paper (20-30 rolls for sanitation as well as for bargaining)
Toothbrush and toothpaste
Soap
Deodorant
Liquid detergent
Shampoo
Household bleach
Powdered chlorinated limeadd to sewage to deodorize, disinfect, and keep
away insects
Large, plastic trash bags
Towels
Paper towels
Paper plates, napkins/paper towels, plastic eating utensils, plastic cups
Blankets
Sleeping bags
4-8 pack of replacement batteries (rotate stock; keep in freezer)
Knife & razor blades
Garden hose, for siphoning and firefighting
Condoms
Money (at least $100.00 allin small bills & plenty of change)
Scissors
Tweezers
Rubbing alcohol
Sponges
o Pre-moistened towelettes
o Ground cloth
o Candles
o Matchesdipped in wax and kept in waterproof container
o Newspaper, to wrap garbage and waste in
o Large trash cans
o Coleman lanterns
o Stoves
Gasoline stoves and 10 gallons of white gas
Propane stove with an 11 lb propane tank
Weber and charcoal, lighter or sterno stove
Big kitchen matches in a water-tight container
o Potsat least 2
o Chafing dish
o Heavy duty aluminum foil
o 8,000 btu heater that runs on propane
o 12 volt battery backup system
o Medium sized generator to maintain the refrig, provide minimal lighting, and
for power tools
o TentsFour-man dome tent, or regular 9X9 tent
o Set up for at least a week. That's my minimum time
o Fold up toilet seat. (Sure beats squatting.)

TOOLS

Fire extihguisher (A-B-C type)
Shovels, pick, axe, other 'round-the-house tools
Broom
Crescent wrench, screw driver, pliers, hammer
Coil of 1/2" rope
Coil of bailing wire
Plastic tape
Small and large crowbar (18") to help with jammed doors
Small one in the bedroom
Large one out in the shed
Small, high quality, tomahawk or hatchet (useful for opening car roofs, house
doors, and for clearing rubble)
Knifes
A big one (like 8-10" fixed blade) to cut, hack, and to a limited amount,
pry, to make emergency shelters, do emergency surgery, kill alien invaders
A little one (either 4" fixed blade/locking folder, or a large swiss army
knife) to do yet more surgery, as well as more mundane things such as peel
veggies, cut rope, open boxes
New designs of serrated edges that will cut through anything more quickly
than a straight edged knife
Paramedic rescue knife (has an edge and a little bolt which enables it to
be opened with one hand)
Sharpening device
o Trauma shears and pouch (20 times more useful than any knife I've ever had.)
The knife is very concealable as the pouch appears only to hold the shears
o Leatherman (TM) Pocket Multi-Tool
o A cold chisel
o Bolt cutter
o Guns
.22 long rifle semi-auto handgun is nice for small game hunting,
shooting feral dogs (practice!), and for self-defense (practice!)
Larger caliber handgun, primarily useful for self-defense only
"High-powered" rifle, in semi-auto or bolt action
12 guage pump action, or semi-auto, shotgun
Reloading equipment

FIRST AID KIT GEARED TO MAJOR TRAUMA

Sterile eye wash
Any long-term medications for family or pets (make sure they are current)
Large cold packs (disposable)Kwik-Cold is the best brand I've used.
1 space blanket
Bandagesstore in Zip Lock bags
2 4-inch wide roller bandages (Bulk non-sterile)
Not all roller bandages are conforming, or stretch( plain gauze won't
adhere well)
J&J SOF, and the Kendall Conform are the best, both are sold at Med Choice
Can pour Betadine on the dressing before applying it (they do this in ER's)
2 4-inch wide Kerlix rolls (bulky roller bandages)
6 4X4 12 ply gauze dressings
1 Blood Stopper (a VERY multi-use telfa compress dressing)
1 multi-trauma dressing (10X30 heavy duty dressing)
Several packages of vasoline gauze (for sealing sucking chest wounds)
Adaptic dressings (fine mesh dressings for burns and abbrasions)
2 triangular bandages
Bandaids in there somewhere I think, (not real important)
Betadine
Hydrogen peroxide
Hibicleanse anticeptic soap
Safety pins
Pad and pen
o Squirt bulbs (for irrigating wounds)
o 1 unit instant glucose
o Air splints or 1 wire splint (just in case I can't find cardboard)
o Large selection of antibiotics and pain killers (check expiration dates)
o Scalpels, suture kits, and other items to perform minor surgery
o Stethoscope
o BP cuff
Pediatric cuff (sized BP cuff for kids and little old women)
o Latex exam gloves (several pairs, disposable)
o CPR rescue mask (a mask you place on a victim to perform rescue breathing)
o Tape (I hardly ever use tape)
o Steri Strips or butterfly closures
Large open wounds are only to be covered with a sterile dressing and left
to heal/close by themselves. This way, drainage takes place as the dress-
ing is replaced daily.
o Book called "Emergency War Surgery" that outlines the steps to perform
appendectomies, amputations, etc.
o Backpack to carry it all in
o 1 set of 5 oral airways (see explanation below)
Airways are meant to be used primarily in conjunction with ventilation
equipment, resue masks, bag valve masks etc. If used improperly, or with
the wrong size, a patient's airway could be blocked. This especially can
happen if they're not inserted using the correct technique.
o 1 oxygen euipment tubing (connect my mask to supplimental O2,VERY important)
o Surgical scrub brushes (Med Choice has) packaged in betadine or hebicleanse
o Trauma Shears (actually, I carry those on my belt)
o 'Extractor' venom pump kit
o Book called "Emergency War Surgery" that outlines the steps to perform
appendectomies, amputations, etc.
o Fanny pack to carry it all in

SMALL FIRST AID KIT

10 4x4 Dressings*
3 Kling gauze rolls*
1 8x10 surgipad
1 roll wet proof adhesive tape
10 band aids assorted sizes
1 scissors
10 antiseptic wipes*
1 sterile water
1 pocket mask*
1 large trauma dressing
1 instant glucose
1 burn sheet
peroxide*
2 kerlix rolls
2 triangle bandages*
1 rescue or space blanket
1 roll hypo allegenic tape
1 tweezers
1 kwick cold
2 eye patches
2 pair sterile latex gloves
2 erg or gatoade packs
1 pen light
pen and paper
1 syrup of ipecac

STORAGE

Outdoor shed
o Sturdy, decorative footlocker or chest (keep it near the front door or patio)
Keep it filled with as much of the above-mentioned stuff as you can
Water and food being the most important considerations
o Rubbermaid Rough-Neck Totesfood in one tote, blankets in another, etc.
o Enclosed utility trailerready to go should I have to leave the area
Compartments for food storage
One large area for bulkier items such as my generator
5 gallon water jugs
2 5-gallon gas cans on the front
12 VDC battery that can be charged from the vehicle
Fold down shelf on one side for setting up a propane stove for cooking
Ham antennas and lights
1000 lb capacitybuilt small chassis available from Sears or auto stores

EVACUATION KIT

Food
Water
Flashlight
First Aid kit
Clothes
Money (at least $100. in small bills)
Whistle or Police-shrieker
CURRENT pictures of family members (incl pets)
Documents like house deed, insurance, etc.
o A game or two & books

CAR

Keep gas tank full (refill at 1/2 tank)
1 gallon water
High energy protein bars
Keep the food out of direct sunlight, so it lasts longer.
First aid kit
Fire extinguisherCO2
Metalic blankets
Flashlight/siren/radio combination
Sun logo emergency kit, in the SunWear catalogue
Swiss-army knife, or better yet a good folding blade knife with a 3-4" blade
A big knife
Maps of the area
Couple of MRE's (MEALS, ready to eat)
Small backpack to carry it all in
4-5 D-cell Maglite with krypton bulb or 2 AA cells mini-maglite
Extra bulbs
Road flares
Sealable plastic bags
Critical medication
Tissues
Pre-moistened towelettes
Toolsscrewdriver, pliers, wire, knife
Spare Clothing
Poncho
Warm, all weather jacket (A mil-surplus field jacket is great because it's
windproof, has 4 big pockets, a built-in hood, removable insulating liner)
Long sleeve wool sweater
Warm pants
Warm shoes
Rugged gloves (cheap mil-surplus leather gloves and removeable wool liners
are great. For upscale folks, a set of deerskin black leather gloves with
wool liners from Eddie Bauers.)
The nice thing about military clothes and stuff is a) it's rugged and b)
it often is inter-designed to work with other components (Ex: the M-65
field jacket has fold out wrist liners to be cinched down by the military
gloves).
Knit wool cap
Money (small bills/change)
Toilet paper
Tissues
Tampons or pads (useful for first aid, also)
A few large black plastic bags (environmentally incorrect, but very useful)
Vitamins (at least C since fresh food may be scarce for a while)
Spare glasses (if you wear them)
Gas siphonor short rubber hose
o Tow chains, tire chains (4)
o Tent
o Shovel
o Chemical lights (Cyalume)
o Walkman/batteries

HOME

Don't rely on hot water heater for a source of water
Check immediately if the water main has broken
Listen to see if you can hear water leaving the water tank
Close main off to preserve the water in the HW tank
Shut-off valve on the tank
Evaluate home and work-area for their strengths and weaknesses in the event
of an emergency---ie, where are the safest--and not-so-safe--places, know
where the exits are, the location of first aid equipment, best place/s to
store equipment, etc....

EDUCATION

Knowledge of how to use the equiment
American Survival Guide, monthly magazine
Backpacking books
Firearms training

COMMUNICATIONS

Plan how to contact spouses, SOs, children, pets, etc.
o Handheld transmitter (i.e. "walkie talkie")
o CB radio
o Battery operated TV
o Ham radio
o Get involved with a community neighborhood preparedness
Contact the Red Cross disaster services at 408/292-6242
Start by inviting your neighbors over some evening. Tell them that you
are concerned about Earthquake Preparedness and would like to discuss how.
Have some brochures or handouts for them.

COPING

o Major factor in surviving is trying to return to as close a normal life
Eating things you would normally eat
Assigning chores to those who could handle tasks

Paul teaches on how to build a shelter, start a fire, melt snow, and signs of hypothermia. Shelter built with only a knife and fire started with a flint.

Bug Out Tips That Could Save Your Life:

To the surprise of many, the need for water is much higher than for food. Many people have lived for 30 days with no food, but without water, after three or four days you are in serious trouble.

People tend to underestimate how much water is actually needed to perform normal, routine tasks of daily living.

Drinking water is the primary need, but you may need additional water for baths, cooking, flushing toilets, cleaning eating utensils, washing clothes and other chores.

Water availability is affected in natural and man made disasters. In every disaster, the majority of the general population is totally unprepared for even a small interruptions in normal utility and food distribution services. In most disasters, the victims expect and sometimes demand that "someone" provide needed protection, water, shelter and food.

There are myriad ways the water supply can be disrupted. The most common way is due to lack of electricity. With no electricity, there will be no water from water purification plants or your well unless it is a non-electric well.

The second most common way is a water main rupture. Recently, more than 10,000 people in the southeastern United States were out of water for over two weeks due to such a rupture.

Wells can be contaminated by flooding, and well pumps can become damaged by flooding. Freezing weather also takes its toll on well and city water lines.

Local streams are never safe during disasters because raw sewerage and polluted surface water can enter the streams.

During a recent hurricane , the wind blew an excessive amount of leaves into the affected area's reservoirs. The water turned yellow for three weeks and acquired an objectionable taste due to the abnormal amount of leaves that were decomposing.

Container storage -- certain plastic containers such as drywall buckets and plastic trash containers are not intended for food contact and may leach undesirable chemicals into stored water. These containers should be used for transporting water or for storage of water not used for consumption.

Although the 5 gallon drywall bucket is not good for storing drinking water, it is an excellent choice for transporting water and for storage of water not used for consumption.

Any container used for transportation or for storage needs a top during transportation, the top reduces spillage. Tray transporting water in the care trunk in a bucket without a top and you will see how much sloshes out. During storage, the top keeps out dirt, dust, insects, etc.

The 5 gallon buckets used by restaurants for food products are excellent for storing drinking water. If no containers are available, plastic sheets or bags can be used to line porous containers for storing water in emergencies. A depression can ever be dug in the ground and lined with plastic to hold water temporarily.

In storing water for emergency uses, most authorities recommend a minimum of 2 gallons per person per day. This should include one half gallon for drinking and the balance for other uses. It is preferable not to ration water in a survival situation because this may have adverse affects on the health of people involved.

I store non-drinking water for dish washing, toilets, washing clothes, etc. in 5 gallon plastic drywall buckets. My drinking water is stored in out bleach bottles and plastic milk jugs. I add 16 drops of liquid bleach (4-6 percent sodium hypochlorite) per gallon of clear water to protect it during storage form the growth of micro-organisms. I suggest storing an extra jug of bleach to purify any new water that is of questionable quality.

Be careful not to misidentify bleach bottles as containing drinking water if you also have bleach on hand. This is especially dangerous where children are involved. Always remove the bleach label and replace it with the word "WATER" in large indelible letters on the jugs in which the water is stored.

The Utah State University Extension Service offers the following instructions for heat sterilization when using glass containers to store water: "fill clean fruit jars with water, leaving one inch of head space at the top of the jar. Place clean sterilized lids on the jar and process the water in a boiling water bath as fruit juice is processed. Quart jars should be processed 20 minutes. Two quart jars 25 minutes."

Whatever the container used, it is probably a good idea to date each container with a large magic marker or other marking instrument. I'm glad I did mark my first water storage jugs because I now have water that is 8 years old. Water is used on a first- in first-out basis. My water supplies have been used many times in the last 8 years.

Since I do own a generator, a power outage will shut down my well. No electricity, no electric well pump. On several other occasions, my well pump had maintenance problems and the stored water came in very handy while the pump was being repaired.

Don't store plastic containers near fuels, pesticides or similar materials. The vapors from these can penetrate the plastic and contaminate the water. Also, store water in the dark to protect the plastic from sunlight.

One problem commonly encountered in water storage is inventory control. You must be diligent in replacing the water you use and rotate your inventory at least every several years. Use the oldest inventory first. Any questionable water you have in storage can be used for non-drinking purposes.

The local county extension service will test your water for purity. This is a good idea when you have water supplies that have not been rotated for several years.

If you have enough advance notice of a coming water emergency or possible emergency, fill up extra empty mill cartons, jars, bathtubs, sinks, wading pools, trash cans and or any other available container. Obviously water in garbage cans would be used for non-drinking purposes unless filtered and purified.

OTHER WATER SOURCES -- You can use the water for the toilet tank (not the bowl) and it will offer several gallons. You may want to look in your tank right now to see if it needs a good cleaning.

Trapped water in house plumbing lines offers several gallons of clean water. As soon as the water pressure goes off, be careful to shut off your house lines from the street. This action will insure you do not draw in contaminated water or allow your trapped water to flow back into the connecting municipal system. Next, turn off the heat sources to your water heater. To gain access to trapped water in the house line, crack the faucet at the lowest level and drain the lines. I have installed a faucet in my basement to insure I can collect the water from the lines that run under my house. The basement is where I plan to be during a weather alert.

Your water heater tank holds 30 - 40 gallons. Check your water heater tank because it may have a foot or more of sediment in the tank bottom. Sediment removal is a good reason to drain the tank every year. In addition, the removal of sediment will improve the water heater's efficiency. The hot water tank can be drained by opening the faucet at the bottom of the tank. You may need to open the hot water faucet elsewhere in the house to allow the release of the vacuum to allow a free flow of water. The water inlet valve (faucet) should be turned off if you doubt the quality of the inlet water. If the inlet valve is turned off, you may need to vent the water tank by opening the "pop off" valve lever that is used to allow over heated tanks to vent excessive pressure. The faucet at the bottom is threaded to receive a regular garden hose.

The water in a water bed can also be used. Only use this water for non-drinking purposes because of the possibility of algaecide chemicals in the water and plastic chemicals being leached into the water.

A swimming pool offers a large volume of stored water for non- drinking use. In one case a swimming pool provided a whole neighborhood with water after a hurricane. The neighbors set up a temporary shower in the backyard next to the pool. Others who lived nearby carried the water back home in any containers they could find.

If it rains, place buckets or barrels under rain gutter down spouts. You may have to cut or disconnect them so the water can flow into the container. If your container is not clean, you can line it with plastic such as a clean garbage bag. Plastic sheets can be placed on a hillside or be strung between trees to funnel water into your containers.

PURIFYING WATER -- Pollution can affect ice, snow, water in streams and in shallow wells causing these water sources to be unsafe. Even clear streams can have parasites in them. Unpolluted water must be boiled to assure complete destruction of any dangerous organisms.

Properly stored water is the safest in an emergency. If you have to use water from an unknown source or of unknown quality, be aware that the following methods of purifying water do not guarantee the safety of the water but will reduce the risks involved.

Boiling water is one of the safest methods of water purification. It should be boiled for at least 20 minutes to insure that bacteria are killed. Boiling does not remove pollution. The boiling process will make the water taste flat since some air has been driven out. To add back the oxygen and to improve the taste, pour the water several times from one container to another. Another method is to pour the water into a closed container and vigorously shake it. A small piece of wood or a pinch of salt can be added to the boiling water to improve the taste.

Learn how to start an outdoor fire to be used in boiling water. Do not depend on electricity or gas for your heat source.

Only use chemical purification for questionable water if boiling is not possible. Understand that organic matter in the water increased the amount of chemical needed. The colder the water, the more time needed for the chemical to work.

Add 16 drops of bleach per gallon of water for clear water and double that amount for cloudy or sediment-filled water. Mix well and wait for 30 minutes before using. You should be able to smell the bleach after 30 minutes. If not, repeat the process until you smell the bleach, otherwise do not use the water. If you leave the container uncovered for several hours, the chlorine taste will be reduced and the water will be more palatable.

Always use fresh liquid bleach because it will lose its strength over time. Double the recommended amounts if the bleach is over one year old and do not use it if over two hears old.

Water purification tablets can be used to purify water. They are readily available from sporting goods stores and military surplus outlets.

Use fresh tablets. Normal shelf life for iodine tablets is 3 to 5 years if unopened. iodine tablets work better than bleach or halazone tablets for certain intestinal parasites.In addition, halazone tablets have a shelf life of only 2 year.

Commercial filters combine a filter substance and active ingredients to filter and treat the water at the same time. Some brands are not as effective as they claim.

Clear water should be used whenever possible when purification is needed. If sediment is present, it will settle out in time and the clear water can be poured off or the water can be poured through a cloth or coffee filter to speed up the process.

A novel method to clear up water is to use a cloth siphon arrangement. Place the full cloudy water container higher than the empty clean water container. Roll up a clean dry piece of cloth and put one end in the upper container and the other end in the lower clean container. If the cloth in the lower container is several inches below the cloudy water's water line, then a siphon effect will begin and the water will be filtered. This is a very, very slow process, but is good to know about.

In the distilling process, questionable water is boiled and allowed to condense into safe water.

One method is to allow the water vapor escaping out of a tea kettle to enter an inverted milk jug. The water vapor will condense in the milk jug and run out into a pan set nearby to collect it.

Another method is to run the water vapor through copper tubing (same as used in your house) to condense the vapor into pure water. For quantity production, try to visualize a moonshiners still. Use a larger closed container heated over a fire with copper tubing coiled several times to make such a still.

CONSERVATION -- The more you conserve your water in an emergency, the less you will use or need from storage. For example, toilets use 3-4 gallons per each flush. Add several bricks in the tank to reduce usage (be careful not to have too much waste for each flush). And toilets need not always be flushed after each use. You might also want to build an outdoor toilet trench such as is described in "The Boy Scout Handbook" or other publications.

Stretch out the periods between your baths or showers, or use a Navy type shower procedure, where you turn on the water to wet down, turn off water, soap up and then turn on the water to rinse off. If water is very limited, take a sponge bath when ever practical.

Do not waste water washing clothing other than under clothing. Before you wash, leave clothes outside over night and they will pick up additional moister reducing the amount of wash water needed. A heavy dew will make a wash towel moist enough to use for a sponge bath. It is even better to roll the clothes in the dew to make them very wet before beginning the wash.

Never throw water away without figuring out other uses for it. For example, use the tub water for flushing a toilet. Save the water when you wash your hands and use it for the initial clothes washing water.

Do not dispose of dirty water just because it has sediment in it. You will be surprised how much sediment in dirty water will settle out over night or in several days if left undisturbed. The clearer surface water can be used again for non-drinking purposes.

Finally , it is very important to wash hands when preparing food. Intestinal problems can rapidly dehydrate the body and cause severe health problems.

As you can see, water storage is very simple to accomplish. A little advance preparation can add a great deal of security in our current water-sensitive and highly technological times as well as in any emergency situation.